From historic Swahili guesthouses to luxurious beachfront resorts - my journey through Kenya's best-kept secret
Joseph Kiarie | Travel Consultant
Having spent over 15 years guiding travelers through East Africa, I've developed a special connection with Lamu. I visit the archipelago at least twice annually to stay updated with the latest accommodations and experiences for my clients.
What You'll Find in This Guide.
◾ My Journey to Lamu
◾ Understanding the Lamu Archipelago
◾ Opulent Retreats: Luxury Escapes
◾ Mid-Range Gems: Comfort Without Breaking the Bank
◾ Charming on a Budget: Classic Accommodations
◾ Beyond Your Hotel: Experiencing Lamu Like a Local
◾ Practical Tips for Your Lamu Adventure
◾ Why Lamu Will Call You Back
My Journey to Lamu.
The small propeller plane banked sharply to the left, revealing a breathtaking panorama of azure waters dotted with dhows, their triangular sails catching the late afternoon sun. "First time to Lamu?" asked the woman next to me, a Kenyan artist named Amina who was returning home after an exhibition in Nairobi.
Her knowing smile told me she'd seen this reaction countless times before—the wide-eyed wonder of newcomers catching their first glimpse of the Lamu Archipelago. Minutes later, as we descended toward the tiny airstrip on Manda Island, I knew this trip would be different from my usual hotel reviews.
Over the next two weeks, I would island-hop through this UNESCO-protected archipelago, spending nights in everything from historic Swahili mansions to opulent beach villas, meeting the people who make these hotels special, and uncovering the soul of a place that seems to exist in its own time zone.
After landing, I was greeted by Abbas, a boat captain who'd been ferrying guests across the channel for over 20 years. "Karibuni Lamu," he smiled, helping with my bags as we climbed into his wooden dhow. "Which hotel first?" When I told him I'd be starting at Peponi Hotel in Shela Village, his eyes lit up. "Ah, you begin with the classic!
The Korschen family will take good care of you.
" There are no cars in Lamu. The narrow alleyways, the rhythmic calls to prayer, the scent of spices and saltwater—everything slows you down, pulls you into the present moment. It's the perfect antidote to our hyperconnected world.
As Abbas navigated across the channel, the warm wind carrying traces of frangipani and salt, I watched Lamu Town's ancient skyline emerge—a jumble of coral stone buildings, minarets, and wooden balconies that have remained largely unchanged for centuries.
This extraordinary archipelago off Kenya's northern coast was about to reveal why it has become the discreet retreat of choice for travelers seeking authenticity in an increasingly homogenized world.
Understanding the Lamu Archipelago.
Before diving into hotel recommendations, it helps to understand what makes Lamu so special. The archipelago consists of several islands, with Lamu Island being the largest and most populated.
Lamu Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded in the 14th century, represents one of the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlements in East Africa.
The Islands
◾ Lamu Island: Home to historic Lamu Town and the upscale Shela Village
◾ Manda Island: Where the airport is located, plus several luxury properties
◾ Pate Island: Less visited, with authentic villages and ruins
◾ Kiwayu: A Remote island with pristine beaches
When to Visit:
◾ June to August: Pleasant temperatures, low humidity (my preferred time).
◾ December to March: Hot but bearable, popular with holiday travelers
◾ April to May: Rainy season, some hotels close
◾ November: Short rains, but often good value
I arrived in early July—perfect timing as the oppressive heat of March through May had subsided, leaving pleasantly warm days and cool evenings. Most days started at around 75°F (24°C) and peaked at 82°F (28°C), with gentle sea breezes making it feel even cooler." July is when Lamu breathes again," explained Omar, a shopkeeper in Lamu Town who's lived here all his 67 years.
Not too many people, perfect weather." As I sipped kahawa chungu (traditional bitter coffee) with him one morning, he pointed out how the town's rhythm changes with the seasons—busier during European winter, quieter but more authentic during shoulder seasons.
This understanding of Lamu's seasonal patterns proved invaluable as I visited various hotels. Some properties shine year-round, while others have specific times when they're at their best. I've included these seasonal notes throughout my reviews.
Opulent Retreats: Luxury Escapes in Lamu.
For travelers seeking the pinnacle of indulgence, Lamu offers extraordinary experiences that rival luxury destinations worldwide—but with an increasingly rare authenticity. These properties aren't just about high thread counts and infinity pools; they're about immersion in Lamu's unique culture while enjoying world-class comforts.
The Red Pepper House.
Opulent Beachfront Private Villa Award-winning Architecture. My Journey into Lamu's luxury accommodations began with what can only be described as an architectural masterpiece.
The Red Pepper House blends into its natural surroundings so seamlessly that I almost missed the entrance, hidden as it is among ancient baobab trees and lush vegetation." Welcome home," said Saidi, my attendant for the stay, offering fresh coconut water as I stepped into an open-air reception area that felt more like a friend's extraordinary home than a hotel.
This is precisely the intention, I learned, as owner Fernando Caruncho designed the property to house just five exclusive nyumbas (villas), each with dedicated staff. My accommodation, the Bahari Suite, featured soaring makuti (palm leaf) roofs, intricately carved Lamu doors that took local artisans months to complete, and a private courtyard with a plunge pool.
The four-poster bed, draped in the finest linens and mosquito netting, faced floor-to-ceiling wooden shutters that opened directly to views of the Indian Ocean.
What makes The Red Pepper House truly exceptional isn't just its physical beauty—it's the deeply personal experience created by a staff-to-guest ratio of 3:1. When I mentioned enjoying a particular local tea during breakfast, I found it waiting in my room during afternoon turndown, along with a handwritten note explaining its origins.
Chef Mbarak deserves special mention. Rather than offering a fixed menu, he visited each morning to discuss preferences and what fresh ingredients had arrived that day. "Today the fishermen brought red snapper and tiger prawns," he told me on my second morning. "I thought perhaps a ceviche for lunch, then the snapper grilled with coconut rice for dinner?"
Each meal was served in a different location—on the beach beneath the stars one night, in a private garden nook the next.
◾ Location: Northern Lamu Island, 15 minutes by boat from Lamu Town
◾ Price Range: (From $1,200 per night, all-inclusive)
◾ Best For: Honeymooners, celebrities seeking privacy, architecture enthusiasts
◾ Standout Feature: The completely personalized experience and award-winning design
The Majlis Resort
Luxury Beachfront Family-Friendly Two Swimming PoolsCrossing the channel from Lamu Island to Manda Island brought me to The Majlis Resort, where the approach by boat offers perhaps the most dramatic arrival experience in the archipelago.
The blindingly white structures appear to float above the turquoise water, with Shela Village providing a postcard-perfect backdrop across the channel."The position is everything here," explained Federico, the Italian-Kenyan manager whose family built The Majlis as a private home before converting it into a 25-room luxury resort. "We catch both sunrise and sunset, plus the view of Shela's silhouette." He wasn't exaggerating—I spent my first evening mesmerized by the changing colors as the sun dipped behind Shela's dunes, turning the channel into a ribbon of gold.
Unlike The Red Pepper House's intimate scale, The Majlis offers more extensive facilities—two stunning swimming pools (one family-friendly, one adult-oriented), a sophisticated fitness center (where I joined a sunrise yoga class led by Wanja, an excellent local instructor), and multiple dining areas.
My Junior Suite featured high ceilings with exposed mangrove poles, a massive bathroom with both indoor and outdoor showers, and a private veranda where I could watch dhows sailing by.
The Majlis shines brightest at meal times. Chef Alessandro, who previously worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy, creates Mediterranean-Swahili fusion dishes that utilize local seafood and produce.
His lobster ravioli with coconut and saffron sauce was so memorable that I requested it twice during my three-night stay.
"Most guests think they'll explore the archipelago every day," Federico told me with a knowing smile, "but by day two, they're usually content to move between their suite, the beach, and the pool." He was right—The Majlis creates such a complete environment that it requires genuine effort to pull yourself away.
◾ Location: Manda Island, directly across from Shela Village
◾ Price Range: (From $675 per night, breakfast included)
◾ Best For: Families, couples, those wanting resort amenities with cultural immersion
◾ Standout Feature: The panoramic views and exceptional food
Peponi Hotel
Luxury Historic Beachfront Iconic Bar.
If Lamu has a grande dame, it's undoubtedly Peponi Hotel. Founded in 1967 by the Korschen family, who still own and manage it today, this 29-room boutique hotel anchors Shela Village both physically and spiritually. "Peponi isn't just a hotel," Carol Korschen told me over the property's signature Old Pal cocktail (gin, lime, and bitters—dangerously refreshing). "It's become the living room of Lamu."Indeed, each evening the open-air bar fills with a fascinating mix of European aristocrats, Kenyan professionals, visiting artists, and travelers from around the world.
The night I arrived coincided with a book launch by a prominent Kenyan author, and the conversations flowed as freely as the drinks. The beauty of Peponi is this natural sociability—it's impossible not to meet interesting people.
My Superior Room faced directly onto the seafront, with carved wooden furniture, crisp white linens, and fresh flowers replaced daily. While not as lavish as The Red Pepper House or as contemporary as The Majlis, Peponi offers something perhaps more valuable: authentic character.
The floorboards creak with history, the walls display decades of photographs, and the staff, many of whom have worked here for generations, greet returning guests like family.
Breakfast on my private balcony became a daily highlight—fresh mango and passion fruit, excellent Kenyan coffee, and toast with Carol's homemade marmalade (which guests often smuggle home by the jarful).
For other meals, the seafood-focused menu changes daily based on what local fishermen deliver to the kitchen door.
My most memorable Peponi moment came during an unexpected afternoon downpour. Instead of dampening spirits, the rain transformed the hotel into a cozy haven.
Staff quickly distributed pashminas to guests on the veranda, the bartender created impromptu hot toddies, and a local musician who happened to be visiting began playing the oud.
Magic can't be manufactured—it simply happens at Peponi.
◾ Location: Shela Village, Lamu Island
◾ Price Range: (From $400 per night, breakfast included)
◾ Best For: Social travelers, culture seekers, returning visitors
◾ Standout Feature: The legendary bar and authentic Lamu atmosphere
Mid-Range Gems: Comfort Without Breaking the Bank
Lamu's mid-range accommodations often provide the best value—comfortable, character-filled properties that offer authentic experiences without the luxury price tag. These hotels typically range from $100-250 per night and represent the sweet spot for many travelers.
Kijani Hotel
Mid-Range Swimming Pool 3,000 sq ft Gardens Rooftop RestaurantAfter my luxurious stay at the Red Pepper House, The Majlis, and Peponi, I was curious whether Kijani Hotel could maintain the high standard I'd become accustomed to.
From the moment I stepped through its carved wooden door into a garden oasis, I knew I'd found something special. "Kijani means 'green' in Swahili," explained Fatuma, the front desk manager who's worked here for 12 years. "We named the hotel for our gardens." The 3,000-square-foot tropical paradise forms the heart of the property, with 11 unique rooms arranged around the verdant space.
My room, Number 9 in the Classic category, featured traditional Swahili architecture with modern comforts—a ceiling fan cooled the space effectively, while the hand-carved Lamu bed with its suspended mosquito net invited afternoon naps.
What distinguishes Kijani from other mid-range options is its attention to detail. My veranda featured a traditional Swahili daybed suspended from ropes—perfect for reading or watching tropical birds flit through the garden.
The freshwater swimming pool (a rarity in this price category) provided welcome relief during hot afternoons, and the rooftop restaurant served some of the best seafood I had during my entire stay in Lamu.
One evening, I mentioned to Hassan, the restaurant manager, that I'd love to learn how to make proper Swahili fish curry. The next morning, without prompting, he invited me to join Chef Aisha in the kitchen for an impromptu cooking lesson.
We spent an hour grinding spices and discussing the subtleties of coconut milk extraction—the kind of unscripted experience that makes travel meaningful.
Unlike the luxury options, Kijani doesn't offer 24-hour room service or personal butlers. But what it lacks in extravagance, it makes up for in character and value.
The staff-to-guest ratio remains high, and every interaction feels genuine rather than performative.
◾ Location: Shela Village seafront, Lamu Island
◾ Price Range: (From $164 per night, breakfast included)
◾ Best For: Couples, solo travelers, garden lovers
◾ Standout Feature: The lush tropical garden and authentic Swahili architecture
Msafini Hotel
Mid-Range Swimming Pool Near Shela Beach Rooftop ViewsJust a two-minute walk from Shela Beach sits Msafini Hotel, a solid mid-range option that particularly appeals to travelers who want comfort without frills.
The property doesn't have the same historical charm as some others in Lamu, having been built in the early 2000s, but what it lacks in age, it makes up for in spaciousness and amenities."We're the best value in Shela," Ibrahim, the night manager, told me confidently as he showed me to my third-floor room.
After staying at several properties, I'm inclined to agree with his assessment for certain types of travelers.
My room was significantly larger than similarly priced options elsewhere, with a powerful ceiling fan, surprisingly good water pressure (not always a given in Lamu), and a small balcony overlooking the hotel's interior courtyard.
Msafini's rooftop restaurant became my favorite spot for breakfast, with views extending over Shela's sand dunes to the ocean beyond.
The menu is straightforward but well-executed—fresh fruit, excellent chapati bread, and strong Kenyan coffee started each day right. For dinner, I recommend venturing into the village, where several excellent restaurants (including the famous Peponi) await within a five-minute walk.
A medium-sized swimming pool in the central courtyard provides welcome refreshment after exploring Shela's winding pathways or spending time on the beach.
One note: Msafini is a dry hotel in keeping with local Muslim traditions, so those wanting sundowners should plan to visit nearby establishments.
What impressed me most about Msafini was the staff's practical knowledge. When I mentioned wanting to explore the less-visited southern beaches, Hussein at reception not only mapped out a perfect walking route but also calculated exactly when to leave based on the tidal patterns. "Go at 11," he insisted. "Not 10, not 12." Following his advice led me to completely empty stretches of pristine coastline.
◾ Location: Shela Village interior, 2 minutes from the beach
◾ Price Range: (From $90 per night, breakfast included)
◾ Best For: Practical travelers, families, small groups
◾ Standout Feature: Spacious rooms and excellent value
Charming on a Budget: Classic Lamu Accommodations
Don't let a limited budget keep you from experiencing Lamu's magic. The archipelago offers several characterful options that provide authentic experiences without compromising on essentials like cleanliness, safety, and location.
Jannat House
Budget Historic Swimming Pool Multiple Terraces. If your priority is immersing yourself in Old Lamu Town's authentic atmosphere, Jannat House offers unbeatable value.
Housed in three connected historic Swahili buildings from the late 1700s, this 16-room guesthouse sits just a stone's throw from the waterfront but feels like a peaceful oasis once you step through its carved door."'Jannat' means paradise," explained Caroline, one of the owners who took over the property in 2015 and carefully renovated it.
"We wanted to create a place where guests could experience real Lamu without spending a fortune." The moment I entered the cool, plant-filled courtyard after the busy, sun-baked streets of Lamu Town, I understood the aptness of the name.
My room was simple but spotlessly clean, with traditional Swahili furnishings, a ceiling fan, and mosquito nets over the bed. What the accommodations lack in luxury, they make up for in character—thick coral stone walls, intricate woodwork, and breezy windows designed for natural cooling.
The true gems of Jannat House, however, are its five terraces spread across different levels. I spent each evening on a different one, watching the sunset turn Lamu's minarets golden as the muezzin's call to prayer echoed across the town.
The small but refreshing swimming pool offers welcome relief after exploring Lamu Town's narrow, winding streets.
Breakfast, included in the room rate, features fresh fruit, local pastries, and excellent coffee served in the airy courtyard. While Jannat House doesn't have a full restaurant, Caroline or her partner Karissa can arrange dinners with advance notice—their carrot soup, mentioned frequently in guest reviews, lives up to the hype.
What makes Jannat House special is how it connects guests with authentic Lamu experiences. When I expressed interest in traditional Swahili embroidery, Caroline arranged for me to visit Mama Shadia, a local artisan who's been creating intricate designs for over 50 years.
This kind of personal connection simply doesn't happen when you're isolated in a luxury resort.
◾ Location: Lamu Old Town, close to the waterfront.
◾ Price Range: (From $42 per night, breakfast included)
◾ Best For: Cultural immersion, solo travelers, history enthusiasts
◾ Standout Feature: Historic atmosphere and multiple terraces
Lamu Palace Hotel
Budget Waterfront Restaurant Central Location. For travelers prioritizing location and functionality over charm, Lamu Palace Hotel offers a strategic position directly on Lamu Town's waterfront.
The hotel occupies a large Swahili-style building with 22 rooms spread across three floors, many offering direct views of the harbor's constant activity."We're where everything happens," said manager Mohammed Athman as we watched donkeys carrying goods along the waterfront path below my balcony.
The location truly is unbeatable—step outside and you're immediately in the heart of Lamu Town's bustling daily life, with the jetty, market, and main street all within a minute's walk.
My standard room was basic but functional, with air conditioning (a rarity in budget accommodations), a firm bed, and a small bathroom with consistent hot water. While lacking the character of Jannat House, the rooms are significantly larger and may better suit families or those staying longer term.
The ground-floor restaurant serves decent Swahili and international dishes, though I found better options nearby. What the Palace excels at is convenience—its central location makes it easy to explore Lamu Town by day while using the hotel as a practical base.
The front desk can arrange boat trips, tours, and other activities, often at better rates than you'll find elsewhere.
While sitting in the hotel's open lobby one afternoon, I struck up a conversation with Ali, a local boat captain who regularly works with Palace guests.
His enthusiasm for showing visitors "the real Lamu" led to an impromptu sunset dhow trip where we sailed past villages rarely seen by tourists. Sometimes the best experiences come from these unplanned interactions that budget properties facilitate.
◾ Location: Lamu Town waterfront
◾ Price Range: $ (From $60 per night, breakfast included)
◾ Best For: Convenience seekers, practical travelers, families
◾ Standout Feature: Unbeatable waterfront location
Sunsail Hotel
Budget, Simple, Clean, Local Experience.
For travelers on the tightest budgets who still want a clean, safe place to sleep while exploring Lamu, Sunsail Hotel represents the archipelago's best true budget option. This small, family-run guesthouse offers simple rooms at rates starting around $30—practically unheard of for accommodations of this quality in Lamu."We want everyone to experience Lamu, not just rich people," explained owner Bakari Hassan, whose family has run the seven-room property for three generations.
His philosophy is reflected in the no-frills but dignified approach to hospitality—clean rooms with fans, mosquito nets, and basic private bathrooms.
My room was small but immaculately kept, with whitewashed walls, simple wooden furniture, and windows that caught the sea breeze. The real joy of staying at Sunsail is the rooftop terrace, where guests gather in the evening to share stories over tea.
There's no restaurant, but Bakari's wife Amina prepares a simple breakfast of fruit, bread, and coffee or tea each morning. What Sunsail lacks in amenities, it makes up for in authentic connection to local life.
Located on a quiet side street in Lamu Town, just a short walk from the main market, the hotel places you in the heart of everyday activities.
Bakari or his son Omar are always ready with suggestions for affordable local experiences, from which food stalls serve the best samosas to where you can watch boat builders practicing their craft.
During my stay, I was lucky enough to coincide with a local wedding celebration. Upon noticing my interest in the music and festivities taking place nearby, Bakari spoke with the family and secured me an invitation to join—an experience no amount of money could buy at a luxury resort.
This kind of genuine cultural immersion is the true luxury of budget travel in Lamu.
◾ Location: Quiet side street in Lamu Town
◾ Price Range: (From $30 per night, simple breakfast included)
◾ Best For: Budget travelers, backpackers, authentic culture seekers
◾ Standout Feature: Genuine local hospitality and unbeatable price
Beyond Your Hotel: Experiencing Lamu Like a Local
Regardless of which accommodation you choose, the true magic of Lamu lies in venturing beyond your hotel. During my two weeks in the archipelago, I collected these insider experiences that shouldn't be missed:
Dhow Sailing
"No visit to Lamu is complete without sailing on a traditional dhow," insisted Captain Shee, a third-generation boat builder I met through Fatuma at Kijani. Unlike the tourist-oriented sunset cruises, he offered to take me to Manda Toto, a tiny uninhabited island with pristine beaches. We spent a full day sailing, swimming, and cooking fresh fish over a fire on the beach—a highlight of my trip.
Local Tip: Book directly with captains rather than through hotels to get better rates and more authentic experiences.
Hidden Food Gems
Beyond hotel restaurants, Lamu offers incredible local dining. My favorite discovery was Whispers Café, tucked away in a courtyard off Lamu Town's main street.
Owner Zainab serves only one dish daily—whatever she feels inspired to cook—accompanied by fresh tamarind juice.
Her Thursday samaki wa kupaka (fish in coconut curry) had me coming back weekly.
Local Tip: Ask local shopkeepers, not hotel staff, for their favorite eating spots. I found Whispers through Omar, the shopkeeper I mentioned earlier.
Architectural Tours
While most tourists wander Lamu Town's streets independently, I took a specialized architectural tour with Abdul Maawy, a local conservationist working to preserve traditional building techniques. "Every carved door tells a story," he explained as we explored hidden courtyards and rooftop terraces normally closed to visitors.
Local Tip: The Lamu Museum can connect visitors with specialized guides like Abdul for in-depth cultural experiences.
Evening Walks
Lamu transforms after sunset, when temperatures cool and locals emerge to socialize. Some of my most memorable moments came from simple evening walks through Shela's sandy paths or along Lamu Town's waterfront. Unlike many destinations, Lamu feels completely safe after dark, with children playing in squares and neighbors visiting on doorsteps.
Local Tip: Carry a small flashlight for Shela's unlit paths, and don't rush—the point is to move at Lamu's natural, unhurried pace. Each hotel I stayed at offered unique access to different aspects of Lamu life.
Peponi connected me with Shela's international creative community, Jannat House immersed me in Lamu Town's daily rhythms, and The Majlis provided easy access to Manda Island's nature experiences.
Consider splitting your stay between two properties to experience different facets of the archipelago. Practical Tips for Your Lamu Adventure
Flying to Lamu
Skyward Express, Safarilink, and Jambo Jet fly between Lamu and Nairobi's Wilson or Jomo Kenyatta International Airport daily. Flights are also available from Malindi and Mombasa airports.
All times are based on estimates and are subject to change without notice.
|
Flight Details
|
Skyward AM
|
Jambo Jet
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Safarilink PM
|
Skyward PM
|
|
Nairobi Airport
|
Wilson
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JKIA
|
Wilson
|
Wilson
|
|
Departs Nairobi
|
10:00
|
09:00
|
13:30
|
14:30
|
|
Via
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Mombasa
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-
|
Direct
|
-
|
|
Arrives Lamu
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12:10
|
10:20
|
15:15
|
16:20
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Return Journey
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Flight Details
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Skyward AM
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Jambo Jet
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Safarilink PM
|
Skyward PM
|
|
Departs Lamu
|
12:30
|
10:50
|
15:30
|
16:40
|
|
Via
|
Mombasa - 12:10
|
-
|
Malindi
|
Malindi
|
|
Arrives Nairobi
|
14:40
|
12:10
|
17:50
|
18:30
|
|
Luggage Allowance
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20kg
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23kg
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15kg
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20kg
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Airlines: Skyward Express, Safarilink, Jambo Jet- Frequency: Daily flights are available
Additional Routes: Malindi and Mombasa airports
Getting There & Around
Flights to Lamu's Manda Airport operate daily from Nairobi (both Wilson and JKIA airports) via Safarilink, Jambojet, and Kenya Airways. The 90-minute flight offers spectacular views of Mt. Kenya and the coastline—book a left-side window seat when flying in for the best vistas.
Upon arrival at the tiny airstrip, hotel representatives typically meet guests for boat transfers. If you haven't arranged this, plenty of boat captains offer transfers at standardized rates (approximately 2,500 KSH to Shela and 2,000 KSH to Lamu Town as of early 2025).
Remember that Lamu has no cars—transportation is entirely by foot, boat, or donkey. Budget around 1,000 KSH for boat trips between Lamu Town and Shela, or slightly more for night journeys.
For exploring the narrow streets, comfortable walking shoes are essential.
Weather & When to Visit
As I mentioned earlier, Lamu enjoys a tropical climate with distinct seasons:
- December to March: High season brings warmer temperatures (80-90°F/27-32°C) and more visitors, particularly during the Christmas/New Year period when prices spike and reservations become essential.- April to May: The long rainy season means daily downpours, higher humidity, and some hotel closures for renovation.
- June to August: My preferred time to visit. Temperatures are moderate (75-82°F/24-28°C), humidity is lower, and the archipelago feels peaceful.
- November: Short rains bring occasional showers but also reduced rates and fewer tourists. During my July visit, I experienced perfect weather—sunny days with cooling breezes and comfortable evenings requiring only a light shawl.
What to PackLamu's combination of tropical climate, Muslim culture, and limited shopping options requires thoughtful packing:
Clothing: Lightweight, modest garments that cover shoulders and knees (especially in Lamu Town). For women, flowing dresses and scarves are perfect; men can opt for linen shirts and lightweight pants or longer shorts.
Footwear: Comfortable sandals for walking on sand and uneven surfaces. Leave the heels at home—they're impractical on Lamu's sandy paths.
Sun Protection: High-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, and a wide-brimmed hat are essential. The equatorial sun is intense year-round.
Medications: Bring all necessary prescriptions and a basic first-aid kit. While Lamu Town has pharmacies, the selection is limited.
Cash: ATMs are unreliable, so bring enough Kenyan shillings for your stay. Most luxury hotels accept credit cards, but smaller establishments and local vendors operate on cash only.
Must-bring: a good book or e-reader. Lamu's serene atmosphere inspires reading, and you'll find yourself lingering over coffee or cocktails with literature in hand.
Cultural ConsiderationsLamu is predominantly Muslim, with cultural traditions dating back centuries. Respecting local customs will enhance your experience:
Dress modestly: Especially in Lamu Town and villages. Beach attire is acceptable on Shela Beach, but cover up when walking through villages.
Photography: Always ask permission before photographing people. Some older residents may decline.
Ramadan: If visiting during the holy month, be respectful by not eating, drinking, or smoking in public during daylight hours.
Alcohol: While available at tourist establishments, avoid drinking in public spaces out of respect for local customs. "In Lamu, time moves differently," explained Hassan, a boat captain I befriended. "We say 'pole pole'—slowly, slowly.
The Western rush doesn't work here." Embracing this philosophy is perhaps the most important cultural adaptation visitors can make.
Why Lamu Will Call You Back
On my final evening in Lamu, I found myself back at Peponi's bar, nursing an Old Pal cocktail and watching dhows silhouetted against the sunset. "You'll be back," said Carol Korschen with the confidence of someone who's seen it happen countless times. "Lamu has that effect on people."She was right, of course.
There's something about this archipelago that gets under your skin—the unhurried pace, the cultural authenticity, the feeling of having discovered a place that somehow exists both in and outside of time.
Whether you stay in the opulence of The Red Pepper House, the classic charm of Peponi, the lush gardens of Kijani, or the historic surroundings of Jannat House, Lamu offers accommodations to suit every preference and budget.
What unites these diverse properties is their connection to Lamu's soul. Unlike more developed beach destinations, the archipelago has maintained its cultural integrity while welcoming visitors.
The result is a place where luxury means something different—not gold taps and butler service (though you can find those too), but rather the luxury of authenticity, of genuine human connection, of experiences that can't be manufactured or mass-produced.
As Abbas, the boat captain who first welcomed me to Lamu, said while ferrying me back to the airport: "People think they come here to see beautiful buildings and beaches. But they leave understanding that Lamu's real beauty is in how it changes you—slows you down, opens your eyes, makes you remember what matters."
I carried that thought with me as the small plane lifted off from Manda's airstrip, the archipelago's shores growing smaller below. From above, I could see all the places I'd stayed—the white gleam of The Majlis, the thatched roofs of The Red Pepper House, the prominent position of Peponi at Shela's edge, the hidden courtyards of Jannat House in Lamu Town's maze of streets.
Each had offered a different window into Lamu's world. And as Carol predicted, I was already planning my return. The AuthorJoseph Kiarie, is a Kenya-based travel consultant specializing in East African destinations.
He divides his time between his Nairobi Office and destination adventures, thus getting first-hand experience to share with his business clientele.
This article represents his personal experiences staying at multiple properties across the Lamu Archipelago in 2024.
All hotel information, including prices and amenities, is accurate as of the publication date.
We recommend confirming details directly with properties before booking.
© 2025 Blavals Adventure Authentic Travel Experiences | Last Updated: May 24, 2025
